A GOLD RING, SET WITH A STAR SAPPHIRE AND RUBIES, SOUTHEAST ASIA, 18TH-19TH CENTURY

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A GOLD RING, SET WITH A STAR SAPPHIRE AND RUBIES, SOUTHEAST ASIA, 18TH-19TH CENTURY The ring with a raised oval bezel, neatly set with a large golden star sapphire, encircled by a finely beaded border and four smaller pink cabochon rubies, the setting richly worked in relief with scrolling foliate designs. The shoulders and hoop continue the foliate decoration, the underside centered by a floral motif. Alloy composition: 68.59% gold, 28.62% silver, 2.78% copper. The lot was tested by the Zelnik István Southeast Asian Gold Museum. Rubies: circa 0.11 g (0.56 carat). Golden star sapphire: circa 1.53 g (7.65 carat). Dimensions: Width 3.5 cm The present ring is distinguished by its large golden star sapphire, a rare, phenomenal variety of corundum displaying asterism, an optical effect produced by minute-oriented inclusions within the stone. Star sapphires are only rarely encountered in surviving Southeast Asian gold rings, one notable example from 14th century Champa is illustrated by Susan Ollemans, “Ancient Gold Rings from Asia: The Tuyet Nguyet Collection,” in Arts of Asia, vol. 47, no. 4, July-August 2017, pl. 21. Framed by four pink rubies and richly worked gold ornament, the central stone gives the ring a particularly striking appearance. Literature comparison: Compare a related gold ring set with a moonstone and rubies, Cambodia, dated to the 19th century, diameter 3 cm, in the Cleveland Museum of Art, accession no. 1944.73. Auction result comparison: Type: Closely related Auction: Sotheby’s Hong Kong, 28 July 2021, lot 1018 Price: HKD 44,100 or approx. EUR 5,300 converted and adjusted for inflation at the time of writing Expert remark: Compare the related raised cabochon setting, floral ornament, and subsidiary stones. Note the slightly smaller size (2.2 cm) and lower weight (8.6 g).

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